Riesling 'Tradition', Domaine Albert Mann, Alsace, France 2014
Two brothers, Maurice and Jacky Barthelmé in the village of Wettolsheim, near Colmar, run this well regarded Alsace domaine. Maurice, who took over here in 1984, is married to the granddaughter of the late Albert Mann who gave his name to the domaine. It’s not a huge operation: they have 19 hectares in all, but five of these are in five different Grand Cru vineyards and a further two are in lieux-dits.
The wine is a pale golden-yellow in the glass. On the nose it is appealingly clean and aromatic with pure lemon citrus aromas, with hints of red apple and pear. Dry and fine in the mouth this organic Riesling reveals more citrus notes (grapefruit, lime and a hint of pearskin), taut and mineral with a long, lime-streaked finish.
The finish is crisp and refreshing with a spicy undertone. Perfect with roast goose, spicy butter-steamed bass or a shrimp and papaya salad.
At a glance