Venezia Giulia Bianco Vitovska, Benjamin Zidarich, Friuli, Italy 2011
Friuli is home to hundreds of indigenous grape varieties, many of which are white, and are a true national treasure as far as wine lovers are concerned, because of their unique flavors, textures, and aromas. Vitovska is one such variety. Found nowhere else in Italy but Friuli, this vine is about as far off the beaten path you can get when it comes to grape varieties (a good measure of which is always whether it appears in the Oxford Companion to Wine, which it doesn’t).
Representing the purest expression of the varietal in its effusion of spices, pears, jasmine and flowers, Zidarich’s Vitovska has a rosy, cidery haze to it and enticing aromas of yellow cherries, apples, pears and smoke. In the mouth it is dense without being heavy, honeyed yet dry and packed full of mineral flavours.
It is almost a paradoxical wine, resting on that fragile border between lightness and weight, dry and sweet. It gives the wine tension and energy and will make you want to drink more and more of it...
At a glance